SWEnigiser FAQ

Options available:

  1. DIY KIT

UV-printed stainless steel enclosure, pcb:s (voice, pot, buss, expansion) pots 16mm (29), pots 9mm (2), rotary switches (9), knobs (38), trimpots (12), jacks 3.5mm (43), power switch, dc jack, midi din jack, 50 pin IDC flat cable, long pin header 2×20 (2), short pin header 2×20 (1) CV-12 midi ic, green LED, 8x M3 screws with round head 2mm hex.

You need to get the electronic components listed in the BOM yourself.

  1. DIY KIT + main board

As option 1 + prebuilt, calibrated and tested main board. If you want a considerably simpler and/or faster build, this is your option. There are some extra stuff you need to buy.

  1. Prebuilt unit – plug in and go

No building required. Also includes patch cables (1x45cm green, 3x30cm green, 3x30cm LED clear, 2x30cm stackables white.) and external PSU. 

Add-ons available

Patch cables kit

10 cables, 1x45cm green, 3x30cm green, 3x30cm LED clear, 2x30cm stackables white. Included in the prebuilt (3) option, can be bought at order for the other options.

Chip kit

8xCA3080, 3xca3240 and PNP-array is offered in the webshop if you don’t want to source them yourself. 

Q: Will the DIY-kit include everything needed to build it?

No. We have made an effort to include the more difficult to get and expensive parts to give you more value for money and contribute to less shipping of small packets.

Who is producing the pre-built machine?

Analog Sweden Machines, Malmö, Sweden. 

Can I expect any support for the DIY build?

There is a detailed build guide with a troubleshooting section, but we can’t offer direct support. 

 Is it a clone or exact replica?

A: It is a replica of an original Orgon Systems Enigiser with new add-ons and reworked front panel graphics. The boards have been copied by hand, as there are no original schematics available. We have integrated the patched components found in the original in the new boards, along with midi to cv-converter and PSU DC/DC module. There’s a newly developed separate expander board with 3.5mm patchbay for the original internal expansion header. Also added are gate booster circuits, eurorack voltage level converters and white noise out. CV in and out on the original board has been changed to 3.5mm jacks.

Does it sound 100% like the original?

Yes. It is an exact replica, but using the expander you can make infinitely more sounds.

How hard is it to build?

It’s a medium skill build. Don’t try this as your first project. Option 2, with prebuilt and calibrated main board, is considerably easier to build, but would still not recommend it as your first build.

How much does the BOM cost?

We haven’t counted recently, but 100 eur should be enough.

Is the build 100% through hole or is there (some) SMD involved? 

100% TH. All SMD is pre-soldered.

Where do you use SMD?

Midi to CV-converter and all buffer/level/noise electronics on the expansion pcb.

Does the build require any rare/vintage/NOS parts


I have a company, can you deduct VAT?

Yes. Enter it in the check out section.

Q: What about the enclosure?

300x250x50 mm, Laser cut 1.5 mm brushed stainless steel, UV-printed graphics. Stainless steel, is contrary to its name, very easy to stain. Fingerprints will show up immediately, but you can always wipe it down with a microfibre cloth. We choose to keep the finish to stay close to the original design, and frankly, it looks awesome. Do not use any solvents when cleaning, you might destroy the print.

Q: What documentation is available?

A: A newly written user manual and quickstart guide, Build manual and calibration instructions. We have no schematic.

Q: What does the expander patchbay include?

  • A: 34 x 3.5 mm jack patch points. 
  • Midi section: 4xCV out, 3x gate out, 3x gate booster in. 
  • CV expander section, buffered: 
  • CV input (ENV EXT 1-2, LFO EXT 1-3, VCO SHAPE, VCO FM+attenuator pot, VCO CV INV)
  • Audio input (VCF, VCA+attenuator pot)
  • CV levels converted to Eurorack standards. 
  • Main output
  • White noise out

Q: What connectors/holes do I find on the back?

A: Left side: Midi DIN, Right side 6.3mm audio out, DC in, power switch. All included in the kit. 

Q: But isn’t there already a 6.3mm audio output on the front panel? 

A: Yes, it is still there. However, having one on the back is more convenient.

Q: Why did you change the front panel graphics?

A: To make it easier to use and clearly define that this is an evolved and expanded product. The original graphics is a mess tbh, with switch routings referenced to tables, instead of written next to the switch, for example. 

Q: Midi? 

A: Yes, we have implemented midimuso CV-12 which gives you 4 CV and 3 gates out on the expander patchbay. You hook these up to the CV/gate inputs with 3.5mm patch cables. Midi input is on the back using 5 pin DIN. There is no internal midi routing, you need to use the patch cables unless you route it yourself, which is perfectly possible. There are 11 remaining CV outputs inside the machine which you can access for your own purposes (DIY). You configure it sending midi program change.

Q: Can I use the midi-CV converter for other gear?

A: Yes! It outputs 0-10V

Q: What is a gate booster?

A: The Enigiser wants +12V gates, and eurorack uses +5V. The gate booster scales up the voltage so it works. There’s three (3) of them in the expander patchbay

Q: Can I use the gate booster for other stuff?

A: Yes! They have an input and output. Output is normalized from the internal midi CV-converter, but you can plug in any positive gate you want.

Q: What external PSU should I get?

A: 12V, 2.1mm plug, 500mA minimum, more ok. Center positive. It accepts 9-18V.

Q: Will you offer a Mouser cart or similar?

A: Yes, check docs section.

Q: U4 is a really obsolete PNP-array IC?

A: Yes, but you can substitute it with 4x 2n3906 from band which gives really close matching, or a modern PNP-array. It’s not critical for the sound as it does expo converting. We will offer a substitute in a separate chip bundle.

Q: Can I substitute LF412 and CA3240 for a more common opamp?
A: Yes, probably. We haven’t tried it and don’t know what the consequences will be, but LF412 is optimized for low DC-offset.

Q: What’s a tempco and where can I get it? 

A: A temperature compensating resistor. Buy from Thonk or diysynth.de  for example. If you’re not so interested in temperature compensated tuning, use a normal resistor. Yes, it works. 

Q: What about the original rights for the Enigiser, do you have permission?

A: No, we don’t need it. There are no legal implications for cloning an almost 30 year old synth. We waited for Orgon to release the original again, but nothing happened for a long time. We also bring a lot more to the table, realising the true potential of the Enigiser with an amazing expander, midi and noise.